s, placed them in pots and raised heaps of earth or stones
over them. Heaps like this have frequently been opened, and found to
contain pots with ashes and bones."

"I wish all English could speak Welsh, sir."

"Why?"

"Because then we poor Welsh who can speak no English could learn much
which we do not know."

Descending the monticle we walked along the road together. After a
little time I asked my companion of what occupation he was and where he
lived.

"I am a small farmer, sir," said he, "and live at Llansanfraid Glyn
Dyfrdwy across the river."

"How comes it," said I, "that you do not know English?"

"When I was young," said he, "and could have easily learnt it, I cared
nothing about it, and now that I am old and see its use, it is too late
to acquire it."

"Of what religion are you?" said I.

"I am of the Church," he replied.

I was about to ask him if there were many people of his persuasion in
these parts; before, however, I could do so he turned down a road to the
right which led towards a small bridge, and saying that was his way home,
bade me farewell and departed.

I arrived at Corwen which is just ten miles from Llangollen and which
stands beneath a vast range of rocks at the head of the valley up which I
had been coming, and which is called Glyndyfrdwy, or the valley of the
Dee water. It was now about two o'clock, and feeling rather thirsty I
went to an inn very appropriately called the Owen Glendower, being the
principal inn in the principal town of what was once the domain of the
great Owen. Here I stopped for about an hour refreshing myself and
occasionally looking into a newspaper in which was an excellent article
on the case of poor Lieutenant P. I then started for Cerrig-y-Drudion,
distant about ten miles, where I proposed to pass the night. Directing
my course to the north-west, I crossed a bridge over the Dee water and
then proceeded rapidly along the road, which for some way lay between
corn-fields, in many of which sheaves were piled up, showing that the
Welsh harvest was begun. I soon passed over a little stream, the name of
which I was told was Alowan. "Oh, what a blessing it is to be able to
speak Welsh!" said I, finding that not a person to whom I addressed
myself had a word of English to bestow upon me. After walking for about
five miles I came to a beautiful but wild country of mountain and wood
with here and there a few cottages. The road at length making an abrupt