ot very dark, and we found our way tolerably well, though once in
descending I had nearly tumbled into the nant or dingle, now on our left
hand. The bushes and trees, seen indistinctly through the mist, had
something the look of goblins, and brought to my mind the elves, which Ab
Gwilym of old saw, or thought he saw, in a somewhat similar situation:--

"In every hollow dingle stood
Of wry-mouth'd elves a wrathful brood."

Drenched to the skin, but uninjured in body and limb, we at length
reached Llangollen.

CHAPTER XVIII

Venerable Old Gentleman--Surnames in Wales--Russia and Britain--Church of
England--Yriarte--The Eagle and his Young--Poets of the Gael--The
Oxonian--Master Salisburie.

My wife had told me that she had had some conversation upon the Welsh
language and literature with a venerable old man, who kept a shop in the
town, that she had informed him that I was very fond of both, and that he
had expressed a great desire to see me. One afternoon I said: "Let us go
and pay a visit to your old friend of the shop. I think from two or
three things which you have told me about him, that he must be worth
knowing." We set out. She conducted me across the bridge a little way;
then presently turning to the left into the principal street, she entered
the door of a shop on the left-hand side, over the top of which was
written: "Jones; Provision Dealer and General Merchant." The shop was
small, with two little counters, one on each side. Behind one was a
young woman, and behind the other a venerable-looking old man.

"I have brought my husband to visit you," said my wife, addressing
herself to him.

"I am most happy to see him," said the old gentleman, making me a polite
bow.

He then begged that we would do him the honour to walk into his parlour,
and led us into a little back room, the window of which looked out upon
the Dee a few yards below the bridge. On the left side of the room was a
large case, well stored with books. He offered us chairs, and we all sat
down. I was much struck with the old man. He was rather tall, and
somewhat inclined to corpulency. His hair was grey; his forehead high;
his nose aquiline; his eyes full of intelligence; whilst his manners were
those of a perfect gentleman.

I entered into conversation by saying that I supposed his name was Jones,
as I had observed that name over the door.

"Jones is the name I bear at your service, sir," he replied.

I sai