he high peaks
before us, rather detracted from our enjoyment, and the Greeks we met
pointed to the clouds and with a descending motion of their hands
prophesied rain. However, it never did rain and the afternoon was
perfect. The Greeks followed us with pony loads of grapes (Staphila,
they call them), pomegranates, and figs, and we fared well. A pony in
front of us tumbled down a steep incline and we straightway wished to
buy its load which was scattered everywhere. I picked up a lot of figs
which were dead ripe and delicious. The black grapes of these parts
would be difficult to beat, and I must have eaten 3 lbs. of these on
our way.

After halting the men beyond the village, and having lunch to which
they were allowed beer, a luxury which few of them had tasted for many
months, Stephen and I went to a small village half a mile further on.
Many go from Panagheia to Castro, a fishing village, but our little
place was off the beaten track and quite unspoiled. We entered a
primitive cafe where we had a cup of good coffee, served as usual in a
very tiny cup with a big tumbler of water. Two Greek policemen were
sipping their coffee and playing cards, and we managed to enter into
conversation with them and some other loafers. Many of the old women
were spinning about their doors, and we saw some of their work. Their
wool (goat's) when carded is very fine and fluffy, but the material
when woven is hard and looks as if it would wear for ever.

Next we sat down in front of what we thought was a school and made a
sketch of it. It turned out to be the church of Sainte Varvara. The
school is alongside, and the dominie had eyed us and came over and
took us through the church. We thought he was a verger, and Stephen
wished to purchase every holy relic in it. Then we tipped him a few
coppers, and tapers were accordingly lit and planted in a basin of
sand. All the Greek churches we have seen are very ornate and tawdry,
with a multitude of pictures and tall candlesticks. The pulpit towered
till it almost touched the low ceiling. The centre of the churches is
always vacant, and round this space there is always a row of
high-backed seats. I fancy the difference between the Greek and Roman
churches is not great. Both give much prominence to the Virgin and
Child, but I am told that one of the differences is that the former
does not regard the Virgin as a Saint. A number of saints were
pictured here, including Sainte Varvara, to whom the b