ambling along upon a mule,
having an appearance scarcely less clerical than himself, jostling the
less fortunate friar on the back of the humbler donkey, and the sturdy
mendicant, as he strode along on foot, supported only by his staff. The
streets, and every avenue leading to the _Plaza de los Toros_, were lined
with noisy vendors of delicious fruits, who made a grateful display upon
their stalls of the Seville orange and the cooling water-melon; whilst a
number of Valencians carried about large _vasijas_, or trays of lemonade,
and other refreshments, for the accommodation of the thirsty pedestrians,
who had no time to squander upon a visit to the _neveras_, or ice-houses.
The effect of this animated picture was farther heightened by the cries of
the venders, the harmony of some neighboring barber's guitar, the
continual jingling of the mules' bells, and the clicking of castanets.

Amidst this stunning, yet not unpleasing variety of sounds, we at length
reached the _Plaza de los Toros_, and it was with some difficulty we
obtained places in the stage seats. A vast concourse of persons of all
classes were already assembled, and I observed with a smile the effect
which the novelty of the scene had produced upon an English friend, whom I
had, with great difficulty, prevailed upon to accompany me; having, as he
declared, but little taste for such brutal and demoralizing exhibitions.
He seemed quite excited, and made some passing observation relative to the
Roman Circus, to which the present exhibition bore no unapt resemblance. I
directed his attention to many of his countrymen, as well as other
foreigners, who, after having been quite as clamorous as himself against
the sport, had terminated their philosophical philippics by becoming
constant visitors both at the morning and afternoon encounters. We arrived
at the scene of action just in time to witness _El despejo_, or the
clearing of the arena; a ceremony which is effected by a band of soldiers,
who enter the place and drive every loiterer away, to the sound of drums
and fifes. In a few minutes, not a single person was to be seen in the
circus; and, consequently, the body of spectators, thus driven back upon
the crowd, gave rise to various energetic expostulations, hearty curses,
and not a few random cuffs. The only inconvenience, however, of these
frequent _melees_, was the loss of a few ribbons and a quantity of hair,
of which the _manolus_ most assiduously set about eas