on less
momentous occasions, seems destined only as a lounge for all the
_ennuyes_, news-hunters, and _petit-maitres_ of Madrid. The Manolos, too,
began to congregate in great numbers, casting around those terrible
glances of recklessness and conscious courage, which, in the estimation of
foreigners, are the certain prognostics of as many concealed daggers.

I soon made up my mind to add one to the vast concourse now on the alert
to witness this grand and terrific spectacle, although, for many reasons,
I prudently resolved to postpone my share of the entertainment until the
evening.

It is at this hour that the higher classes prefer visiting the arena: a
number of the more desperate _amateurs_, however, regardless of the
influence of a meridian sun, do not hesitate to present themselves at the
morning exhibitions.

At about four in the afternoon, the _Calle de Alcala_ was, if possible,
more crowded than it had been in the morning. This majestic street, which
commands a full view of the superb triumphal arch which bears its name,
now presented a most striking and animated scene: various groups,
fancifully contrasted in dress and deportment, were all hurrying towards
the same spot. Here you might see the gorgeous equipage of the haughty
grandee, sweeping by in all the imposing consciousness of pomp and
greatness, while carriages of more humble pretensions were rattling as
briskly, if not as proudly, along the gay and lively street. The
_Calesines_, too, were seen in great numbers hurrying to the scene of
anticipated pleasure, and diversifying, by the singularity of their
appearance, and the ringing of small bells, the stately _cortege_ of more
splendid equipages.

Next, an army of _majos_ attracted attention by their fanciful dresses,
and the easy swagger with which they accompanied their _morenas_, who were
not the less conspicuous for their graceful though somewhat confident
demeanor. They were all, of course, attired in their peculiar costume,
bedizened with ribbons, and the short saya reaching only to the middle of
the calf, and showing the most polished ancle and the prettiest foot in
the world. These gay and lively individuals were picturesquely contrasted
with crowds of monks and friars, of all orders and colors--

White, black, and gray, with all their trumpery--

here and there intermingled with military idlers, in the uniforms of their
several regiments.

Here you might see the rosy and jolly abbate,