his was not all that we learnt
from him respecting the reef. He declared that previous to the
appearance of the island, the water in that very spot was
unfathomable; and it was not till after it had sunk, that a
single rock stood in the way to prevent the largest ship of war
from anchoring within a stone's throw of the beach.

Finding our new acquaintance so civil and obliging, we naturally
informed him of our intention to proceed next morning to Ponto
del Gada, the principal town in St. Michael's, and requested his
assistance in procuring some mode of conveyance; but we were
startled by the intelligence that nothing of the kind could be
had, and that there were not even horses or mules to be hired at
any place nearer than the very town whither we were going. This
was rather an alarming piece of news, for our boat had left us,
the weather was too hot for walking, and the distance to be
travelled full fifteen miles. Had we been prudent enough to
detain our boat, the matter would have been easily managed,
because we might have sailed round to the point where the fleet
was to anchor; but this was no longer in our power, and being
rather unwilling to pursue our journey on foot, we were
altogether at a loss upon what course to determine. Whilst we
thus hesitated, the Alcalde suggested that if we would condescend
to ride upon asses, he thought he could obtain a sufficient
number for our party; a proposal with which we gladly closed,
prudently determining that any mode of being carried was better
than walking. Leaving the arrangement of this affair, therefore,
to our obliging friend, we retired to rest upon clean comfortable
mattresses spread for us on the floor; and on waking in the
morning, we found that he had not been negligent in the charge
assigned to him. Our party consisted of five officers, with five
servants, for whose accommodation we found ten asses at the door,
each attended by its driver, who wielded a long pole tipped with
an iron spike, for the purpose of goading the animal whenever it
should become lazy.

It was not without a good deal of laughing that the cavalcade,
after bidding adieu to the hospitable Mayor, began to move
forward. Our asses, of no larger size than ordinary English
donkeys, were uncaparisoned, at least with bridles; and the
saddles were neither more nor less than the pack-saddles upon
which goods are transported to market. For our own comfort,
therefore, we were obliged to sit a