Vivarini, and two companion pictures of much charm. Like the
Salute, the Redentore was a votive offering to heaven for stopping a
plague. Every year, on the third Sunday in July, a bridge of boats
crosses the Grand Canal at the Campo S. Zobenigo, and then from the
Zattere it crosses the Giudecca canal to this church. That day and night
the island is _en fete_. Originally these bridges were constructed in
order that the Doges might attend a solemn service; but to-day the
occasion is chiefly one of high spirits. In the gallery of the Palazzo
Pesaro is a painting representing the event at a recent date; in the
Querini Stampalia gallery a more ancient procession may be seen.

There, too, are many views of regattas which of old were held on the
Grand Canal but now belong to the canal of the Giudecca. The Venetians,
who love these races, assemble in great numbers, both on the water, in
every variety of craft, and on the quay. The winning-post is off the end
of the island of S. Giorgio; the races start from varying points towards
the harbour. In April I saw races for six oars, four oars, two oars, and
men-of-war's boats. The ordinary rowers were dull, but the powerful
bending gondoliers urging their frail craft along with tremendous
strokes in unison were a magnificent spectacle. The excitement was
intense towards the end, but there was no close finish. Between the
races the exchange of chaff among the spectators was continuous.

The question of where to live in Venice must, I think, be a difficult
one to solve. I mean by live, to make one's home, as so many English and
Americans have done. At the first blush, of course, one would say on the
Grand Canal; but there are objections to this. It is noisy with
steamboat whistles and motor horns, and will become noisier every day
and night, as the motor gains increasing popularity. On the other hand,
one must not forget that so fine a Venetian taster as Mr. Howells has
written, "for myself I must count as half lost the year spent in Venice
before I took a house upon the Grand Canal."

Personally, I think, I should seek my home elsewhere. There is a house
on this Giudecca--a little way along from the S. Giorgio end--which
should make a charming abode; for it has good windows over the water,
immediately facing, first, the little forest of masts by the Custom
House, and then the Molo and the Ducal Palace, and upon it in the
evening would fall the sinking sun, while behind it is a pleas