No. 2 in which the
designs are identified as a rice cake, and _b_ as a star, while the
whole pattern is known as _kalayan_--the river. The textile in Plate
LXXIII, No. 1 imitates a mat, while No. 2 is known as _kosikos_--the
circle.

A part of these designs are evidently copies from real objects,
others appear to be merely pattern names, while the weavers do not
hesitate to borrow any likely patterns which strike their fancy. One
quite frequently sees a blanket which shows a "lion," or some other
animal or object, with which the people could only become acquainted
through pictures or descriptions from outside sources.

In addition to these designs already mentioned, there are certain
common types of decoration effected through weaving or embroidery,
for which no explanations are given. They are said to be only "to
make pretty." Among these are the ends of belts and clouts, as shown
in Plate LXXIV, or the raised diamond pattern shown in No. 2 of the
same Plate, or the plaid effect in colors, which appear in some of
the skirts.

It has already been noted (cf. p. 416) that the weaving methods of
the Tinguian are similar to those of the Ilocano, and the same is true
of a considerable part of the decorative patterns. The Christianized
natives have less of the realistic, a greater variety of geometrical
designs, and a greater fondness for bright colors, made possible by
the use of analine dyes, than the mountaineers.

It seems probable that the Tinguian-Ilocano peoples brought the
weaving industry with them into northern Luzon, that the Ilocano branch
has borrowed improved methods of manufacture, as well as decorative
motives from the people with whom they have been in contact through
trade. The Tinguian in turn have borrowed from them, but, in the
main, they still retain the more primitive methods of weaving, and
it is probable their types of ornamentation likewise approximate more
closely those in use in earlier times.

CHAPTER XI

PERSONAL ADORNMENT, DANCES, AND MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS

The dress of the man is the clout (_ba-al_), either of beaten
bark or of cloth, and a woven belt (_balikes_) in which he keeps
small articles (Plates LXXV-LXXVI). On special occasions he wears a
long-sleeved jacket (_bado_), open in front, and in a few instances,
trousers. Both these garments are recent acquisitions, and the latter,
in particular, are not in favor, except where Ilocano influence is very
strong. The man is not inc