pproaching the coast. Leaving
the village the next morning (July 1st) with a light wind, it took us
all day to reach the entrance to the channel, which resembled a small
river, and was concealed by a projecting point, so that it was no wonder
we did not discover it amid the dense forest vegetation which everywhere
covers these islands to the water's edge. A little way inside it becomes
bounded by precipitous rocks, after winding among which for about two
miles, we emerged into what seemed a lake, but which was in fact a deep
gulf having a narrow entrance on the south coast. This gulf was studded
along its shores with numbers of rocky islets, mostly mushroom shaped,
from the `eater having worn away the lower part of the soluble coralline
limestone, leaving them overhanging from ten to twenty feet. Every islet
was covered will strange-looping shrubs and trees, and was generally
crowned by lofty and elegant palms, which also studded the ridges of
the mountainous shores, forming one of the most singular and picturesque
landscapes I have ever seen. The current which had brought us through
the narrow strait now ceased, and we were obliged to row, which with our
short and heavy prau was slow work. I went on shore several times, but
the rocks were so precipitous, sharp, and honeycombed, that I found
it impossible to get through the tangled thicket with which they were
everywhere clothed. It took us three days to get to the entrance of the
gulf, and then the wind was such as to prevent our going any further,
and we might have had to wait for days or weeps, when, much to my
surprise and gratification, a boat arrived from Muka with one of the
head men, who had in some mysterious manner heard I was on my way,
and had come to my assistance, bringing a present of cocoa-nuts and
vegetables. Being thoroughly acquainted with the coast, and having
several extra men to assist us, he managed to get the prau along by
rowing, poling, or sailing, and by night had brought us safely into
harbour, a great relief after our tedious and unhappy voyage. We had
been already eight days among the reefs and islands of Waigiou, coming
a distance of about fifty miles, and it was just forty days since we had
sailed from Goram.
Immediately on our arrival at Muka, I engaged a small boat and three
natives to go in search of my lost men, and sent one of my own men with
them to make sure of their going to the right island. In ten days they
returned, but to my
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