nnot be said to be without examples of aggressive discontent. It is
somewhere between the two extremes that practical commonsense should be
looked for. In the meantime, if it is a question of sharing a supper of
spring quails on Mount Eryx, a peaceful, gentle philosopher is probably a
more agreeable companion than a socialistic nihilist.

If one had the power of choosing one's company, this philosopher would
counsel one not to exercise it; for he looks upon choosing as a
presumptuous kind of trying to control nature. I pointed out that one
cannot altogether detach oneself from nature and that doing nothing is
still choosing not to choose, but he replied that it is the lesser evil,
as in choosing not to write a tragedy in five acts, which I had to admit
can seldom be wrong. Further he asked, inasmuch as we had neither
arranged our meeting nor ordered the quails, were we not at the moment
both enjoying the advantage of having acted on his philosophy? I bowed
and said I had been particularly fortunate this evening; but in Sicily
one is always safe because the people are so charming that the art of
travelling among them consists in allowing things to happen and in being
ready to welcome whatever may come.

Perhaps the best season for going on the mountain is the late summer and
early autumn, when the Trapanese come up for the villegiatura. It is not
too hot during the day, as it is by the sea, and it can be almost chilly
by night, which it never is below. Every one is in a holiday frame of
mind; even the ladies of Eryx go out, whereas during the winter they
seldom leave the house, unless, perhaps, after a storm for a turn in the
balio to see how the trees look when laden with snow. There are picnics
and excursions to other places on the slopes of the mountain where
friends are passing the summer who presently return the visits by coming
up to breakfast with us. There is a touring company performing in the
theatre, there is music, there are drives and all manner of quiet
amusements.

On the mainland of Italy, tobacconists' shops display the Royal Arms with
a notice that they are licensed to sell tobacco and salt. Here a license
is necessary only for tobacco, salt being free in Sicily. This combines
with the absence of rain to make the manufacture of salt profitable; but
should a thunderstorm dilute the pans, the fresh water must be evaporated
out again and time and money are lost. Storms come so rarely in the
s