tual interests, and when
we remounted and drove back to the city, whom should I see, hard by the
King's palace, but those dear Chilians of my heart whom we had left at
Valladolid--husband, wife, sister, with the addition of a Spanish lady
of very acceptable comeliness, in white gloves, and as blithe as they.
In honor of the capital the other ladies wore white gloves too, but the
husband and brother still kept the straw hat which I had first known him
in at San Sebastian, and which I hope yet to know him by in New York. It
was a glad clash of greetings which none of us tried to make coherent or
intelligible, and could not if we had tried. They acclaimed their hotel,
and I ours; but on both sides I dare say we had our reserves; and
then we parted, secure that the kind chances of travel would bring us
together again somewhere.

[Illustration: 13 GUARD-MOUNT IN THE PLAZA DE ARMAS, ROYAL PALACE, MADRID]

I did not visit the palace, but the Royal Armory I had seen two days
before on a gay morning that had not yet sorrowed to the afternoon's
rain. At the gate of the palace I fell into the keeping of one of the
authorized guides whom I wish I could identify so that I could send the
reader to pay him the tip I came short in. It is a pang to think of
the repressed disappointment in his face when in a moment of insensate
sparing I gave him the bare peseta to which he was officially entitled,
instead of the two or three due his zeal and intelligence; and I
strongly urge my readers to be on their guard against a mistaken
meanness like mine. I can never repair that, for if I went back to the
Royal Armory I should not know him by sight, and if I sought among the
guides saying I was the stranger who had behaved in that shabby sort,
how would that identify me among so many other shabby strangers? He had
the intelligence to leave me and the constant companion of these travels
to ourselves as we went about that treasury of wonders, but before we
got to the armory he stayed us with a delicate gesture outside the court
of the palace till a troop for the guard-mounting had gone in. Then he
led us across the fine, beautiful quadrangle to the door of the museum,
and waited for us there till we came out. By this time the space was
brilliant with the confronted bodies of troops, those about to be
relieved of guard duty, and those come to relieve them, and our guide
got us excellent places where we could see everything and yet be out
of the wind