ing of the mysterious forest, and the distant booming
of the sea, together with the measured tread of the night sentry,
made a lullaby which ought to have worked wonders with the "jim-jam"
and the fever patients of the Twenty-eighth.

Chapter XVII.

The Filipino at Play.

As in the pre-Elizabethan days the public amusements consisted
of performances by priests and monks on scaffolding set up before
the church, mystery plays, "moralities," and "miracles," religious
pageants through the village streets,--so in the Philippines, where
they have not outlived the fourteenth century, the Church plays
an important part in popular _fiestas_. The Christmas holidays are
celebrated still by carol singing from house to house, and by the
presentation of the old-time "mystery" by strolling bands of actors,
with a wax-doll to represent the Sacred Child.

Each town, besides the regular church holidays--as indicated by
innumerable red marks in the calendar--has a _fiesta_ for its
patron saint, which is of more importance even than the "Feast of
Aguinaldo" ("Aguinaldo" is their word for "Christmas present"), which
is held annually in December. One of these _fiestas_ is announced
by the ringing of the church-bells--big bells and little bells all
turning somersaults, and being banged as they go round. During the
intermissions the municipal band discourses Spanish and Visayan music,
coming to the end with a triumphant bang. Only on Holy Friday are the
bells abandoned and tin pans and bamboo clappers, sticks and stones,
resorted to for purposes of lamentation--functions for which these
instruments are perfectly adapted.

People come in from far and near, riding in _bancas_ or on ponies,
often spending several nights upon the way. The great church at the
morning mass is crowded; women faint; and, as the heat increases,
it becomes a steaming oven. It is more spectacular at vespers, with
the women kneeling among the goats and dogs; the men, uncovered,
standing in the shadows of the gallery; the altar sparkling with a
hundred candles; and the dying sunlight filtering through mediaeval
windows. As the resinous incense odor fills the house, through
the wide-open doors the sun can be seen setting in its tropical
magnificence behind a grove of palms.

Then the procession, in a haze of dust--led by the band, the padre,
and the acolytes; the sacred relics borne aloft on floats encircled by
a blaze of candles; young men holding each ot