Wichita, and on the
third of September came to a river which La Harpe calls the southwest
branch of the Arkansas, but which, if his observation of latitude is
correct, must have been the main stream, not far from the site of Fort
Mann. Here he was met by seven Indian chiefs, mounted on excellent
horses saddled and bridled after the Spanish manner. They led him to
where, along the plateau of the low, treeless hills that bordered the
valley, he saw a string of Indian villages, extending for a league and
belonging to nine several bands, the names of which can no longer be
recognized, and most of which are no doubt extinct. He says that they
numbered in all six thousand souls; and their dwellings were high,
dome-shaped structures, built of clay mixed with reeds and straw,
resting, doubtless, on a frame of bent poles.[373] With them were also
some of the roving Indians of the plains, with their conical teepees of
dressed buffalo-skin.

The arrival of the strangers was a great and amazing event for these
savages, few of whom had ever seen a white man. On the day after their
arrival the whole multitude gathered to receive them and offer them the
calumet, with a profusion of songs and speeches. Then warrior after
warrior recounted his exploits and boasted of the scalps he had taken.
From eight in the morning till two hours after midnight the din of
drums, songs, harangues, and dances continued without relenting, with a
prospect of twelve hours more; and La Harpe, in desperation, withdrew to
rest himself on a buffalo-robe, begging another Frenchman to take his
place. His hosts left him in peace for a while; then the chiefs came to
find him, painted his face blue, as a tribute of respect, put a cap of
eagle-feathers on his head, and laid numerous gifts at his feet. When at
last the ceremony ended, some of the performers were so hoarse from
incessant singing that they could hardly speak.[374]

La Harpe was told by his hosts that the Spanish settlements could be
reached by ascending their river; but to do this was at present
impossible. He began his backward journey, fell desperately ill of a
fever, and nearly died before reaching Natchitoches.

Having recovered, he made an attempt, two years later, to explore the
Arkansas in canoes, from its mouth, but accomplished little besides
killing a good number of buffalo, bears, deer, and wild turkeys. He was
confirmed, however, in the belief that the Comanches and the Spaniards
of New