it was large and rambling, and seemed to have
more wood than brick. The land, however, was richly worth the money four
times over.

We reached Saumur very late in the evening; it is a small, but very
pretty town, on the southern bank of the Loire. There are here two
bridges over the river; the one from the northern shore to an island in
the middle of the river; the other from the island to the southern
shore. Saumur was formerly a fortified city, and though the
fortifications are now neglected and in perfect ruin, it still maintains
its rank as a military town, and the names of travellers are formally
required, and formally registered. The inn at which we put up was very
comfortable; but the beds were so scented with lavender as to prevent me
from sleeping. Here likewise, I had the happiness of being again waited
upon by females. A young woman, the daughter of the landlord, not only
lighted me to my room, but took her seat at the window, and retained it
till she saw that I was in bed. The French women have none of that
bashful modesty which characterises the women of England and America.
Before getting into bed I was about to close a door, which I perceived
half open at the extremity of the room opposite to that occupied by my
bed; but Felice prevented me, by informing me that her sister and
herself were to sleep there, and as a further proof, shewing me the bed.
"Then I must leave my own chamber-door open," said I. "Certainly," said
she, "if you are not afraid of my sister and me: I have only to see if
Madame and Mademoiselle are in want of any thing, and then I shall come
to bed." "Where does Mademoiselle sleep?" said I. "In the same chamber
with Monsieur and Madame; it is a double-bedded room, on the first
floor, fronting the road; you might have observed the casements of it
shaded with the barberry tree. But you seem curious as to Mademoiselle.
Perhaps there is a _petite affaire_ of the heart between you. Well,
Heaven bless Monsieur, and may you dream that you are walking with your
love in the corn-fields!" Saying this, the sprightly girl left me with
the characteristic trip of French gaiety. I had the curiosity to remain
awake till her sister and herself passed through my chamber to their
own. The girls laughed as they went through the room, and had not even
the modesty (for so I must call it) to close their own door. It remained
a third part open during the whole night; and as they talked in bed,
they prevented m