ch in France, but very dark, damp, and built in a very
bad taste. The tomb of St. Martin, whom tradition reports to be buried
here, is behind the great Altar; it is of black marble, and though very
simple, is very striking. The ancient kings of France used to come to
this tomb previous to any of their important expeditions, and after
having made the usual prayers of intercession used to take away the
mantle of the Saint as the banner under which they were to fight: this
mantle still remains.

The quay is broad, brisk, and clean. Even the French merchants seem
never to lose sight of the union of pleasure and profit: their quays are
terraces, and serve them as well for promenades as for business. One
reason, however, for the superiority of the French over the English
quays, may be, that the French Government consider these quays as public
and national works, and therefore puts them, I believe, under the same
system of management as the roads. What Government does, and does with
attention, will be done well, because Government consults for the
general good; whilst individual proprietors are only actuated by their
own immediate interest. If the wharfs and quays on the Thames had been
laid out by the English Government, would they have so totally defaced
and degraded the banks of that noble river?

There is an excellent market for provisions; I had not the opportunity
of seeing it on the market day, but was informed in answer to my
inquiries, that every article was plentiful, and very cheap. Wood, which
is so dear in every other part of France, is here very cheap, the
country being overspread with forests, and the river furnishing a ready
transportation. Houses are good and cheap: the rent of a house
consisting of a ground floor, two stories above, and attics, the windows
in front of each floor being from six to eight, with coach-house,
stables, garden and orchards, is about 20_l._ English money, the taxes
from 1_l._ 10_s._ to 2_l._, and parish rates about 10_s._ annually. I
should not forget to mention, that the gardens are large, sometimes two
or three acres, encompassed with high walls, and well planted with
fruit-trees, and particularly wall-fruit. In the back part of these
gardens are usually gates opening into the fields, which I have before
mentioned have walks around and across them, and are the common
promenade of all who choose to use them. In the season of harvest or
vintage, nothing can be more charming than the