ing of three
_Fleurs de Lys_ between two oak branches, surmounted by a crown: at the
bottom is another small engraving, with his cypher F. C. it was dated
London, _17th_ July, 1792, 4th year of Liberty.
_No passport of any kind is necessary to enter France._ At Calais one
was given to me by the magistrates, mentioning my age, stature,
complexion, &c. and this would have been a sufficient permit for my
going out of France by sea or by land, if the disturbances in Paris, of
the 10th of August, had not happened.
I embarked at Dover on the 25th July, at one in the afternoon, and
landed at Calais after a pleasant passage of three hours and a half.
I immediately procured a national cockade, which was a silk ribband,
with blue, white, and red stripes; changed twenty guineas for forty
livres each, in paper, (the real value is not more than twenty-five
livres) hired a _cabriolet_, or two wheeled post-chaise of _Dessin_,
(which was to take me to Paris, and bring me back in a month) for three
_louis d'ors_ in money, bought a post-book, drank a bottle of Burgundy,
and set off directly for _Marquise_ (about fifteen miles) where I passed
the night.
The next day, 26th, I proceeded only to _Abbeville_, and it was ten at
night when I got there, because a gentleman in the chaise with me, and
another gentleman and his wife, who had not been in France before, and
who accompanied us all the way to Paris, wished to see Boulogne. We
accordingly walked round the ramparts, and then went on.
The 27th we remained a few hours at _Amiens_, and saw the cathedral and
the engine which supplies the city with water, called _La Tour d'Eau_.
We slept at _Breteuil_ which is a paltry town (_Bourg_.)
The 28th. We were five hours occupied in seeing _Chantilly_. This palace
is the most magnificent of any in Europe, not belonging to a sovereign.
In the cabinet of natural history, which has lately been very
considerably augmented, by the addition of that of _Mr. Valmont de
Bomare_ (who arranged the whole) I observed the _foetus_ of a whale,
about fourteen inches long, preserved in spirits; and the skin of a wolf
stuffed. I saw this identical wolf at _Montargis_, a palace beyond
_Fontainebleau_, in 1784, soon after it had been shot. The carp came, as
usual, to be fed by hand. Some of them are said to have been here above
a century. As to the gardens, they are well known; all that I shall say
is, that they do not contain a single curious tree, shrub, o
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