hear. At night we went to the Harvest Thanksgiving service at S.
Mary's. Nice service, capital sermon, and crammed congregation. The
decorations were scarlet geraniums, corn, evergreen, and grapes. The
_Alster_ wasn't to time, but they said she would sail at four, so we
slept on board. We "turned over" an awful night. R. and I wandered
over the ship, and finally settled on the saloon benches. Then,
however, the Captain came, and said he couldn't allow us to sleep
there, so we sat up, for I couldn't breathe in the berth, and at last
I think the Captain saw I really couldn't stand it, and told me to lie
down again. At six we went on deck, and it was awfully jolly going up
the Humber. At eight we got into the sea, and I didn't get my "shore
legs" again till we got into the Scheldt this morning. At about three
this morning I went on deck, and R. and I enjoyed it immensely,
splendidly starlight, and we were just off Flushing, and the lights
looked wonderful with the flat shore and a black windmill. Then the
Captain gave me tea and packed me up in the saloon, and I slept till
six, when T. came out and woke me, and we went "aloft." We were going
down the Scheldt, and R. was in fits of delight because every tree you
see is exactly like the trees in boxes of toys. Not a bit like English
trees. The flat green banks and odd little villages (of which you can
only see the _tops_ of the houses) were charming.

To M.S.G.

_Hotel de l'Europe, Antwerp._
Sunday, September 24, 1865.

MY DEAREST M.,

We are getting on capitally, and enjoying it immensely. I hope T. got
home pretty well. I miss him dreadfully, tell him--especially
to-day--for both Churches and pictures bore R. However, I have only
taken him into one Church to-day, that of S. Jacques, where he really
was pleased to see the tomb of Rubens. I have found the whereabouts of
two other celebrated ones, and shall try to slip off without him. He
is utterly happy when he has got a cigar, "tooling" up and down the
streets, turning in at a cafe, or buying a peach, and doing "schneeze"
with the "Flams." He does a little French now and then with people in
the streets. I got into the Cathedral just in time to see the glorious
Descent from the Cross, and (which I admire less) the Elevation ditto
by Rubens. I must tell you this morning I went to high mass in the
Cathedral. In fact I heard two masses and a _sermon in Flemish_. It
was wonderful. A very intelligent-looking old priest