of the head.
Ancient writers also add that their garments were long and flowing.

The Anglo-Saxon ladies seldom, if ever, went with their heads bare;
sometimes the veil, or _head-rail_, was replaced by a golden head-band, or
it was worn over the veil. Half circles of gold, necklaces, bracelets,
ear-rings, and crosses, were the numerous ornaments worn at that period by
the women. It is supposed that mufflers (a sort of bag with a thumb) were
also sometimes used.

Great uncertainty exists respecting the true character of a garment much
used by the Anglo-Saxon ladies, called a _kirtle_. Some writers suppose it
to have meant the petticoat; others, that it was an under robe. But, though
frequently mentioned by old authors, nothing can be correctly determined
respecting it.

Little appears to be known concerning the costume in Britain under the
Danes; but we are told that the latter "were effeminately gay in their
dress, combed their hair once a day, bathed once a week, and often changed
their attire."

[Illustration]

The ladies' dress continued much the same till the reign of Henry the
First, when the sleeves and veils were worn so immensely long, that they
were tied up in bows and festoons, and _la grande mode_ then appears to
have been to have the skirts of the gowns also of so ridiculous a length,
that they lay trailing upon the ground. Laced bodies were also sometimes
seen, and tight sleeves with pendent cuffs, like those mentioned in the
reign of Louis the Seventh of France. A second, or upper tunic, much
shorter than the under robe, was also the fashion; and, perhaps, it may be
considered as the _surcoat_ generally worn by the Normans. The hair was
often wrapped in silk or ribbon, and allowed to hang down the back; and
mufflers were in common use. The dresses were very splendid, with
embroidery and gold borders.

[Illustration]

About the beginning of the thirteenth century, the ladies found their long
narrow cuffs, hanging to the ground, very uncomfortable; they therefore
adopted tight sleeves. Pelisses, trimmed with fur, and loose surcoats, were
also worn, as well as _wimples_, an article of attire worn round the neck
under the veil. Embroidered boots and shoes formed, also, part of their
wardrobe.

The ladies' costume, during the reigns of Henry and Edward, was very
splendid. The veils and wimples were richly embroidered, and worked in
gold; the surcoat and mantle were worn of the richest materials; and t