ming, for a
leisurely stroll through the streets of the beautiful and interesting
town.

San Antonio had among its Spanish founders some Jesuit missionaries,
and these wise Fathers set their Indian converts at once at good works
which took practical shape in the deep water courses which still line
the streets at each side to this day, and bring to every man's door
water for irrigation, an absolute necessity in this dry climate. This
accounts for the wealth of roses which embower the trees and houses. It
is a paradise of sweet, flowery shrubs, and the air is vocal with the
songs of the happy birds. "Never," says Mrs. Morgan in her diary,
"Never have I heard such a wealth of bird music as here. Here, too, I
first saw the Mexican red bird in its wild condition."

It has quite a charm to saunter round in a strange town, and mingle all
unknown in the crowd. Thus we went in and out among them. The shops we
found were attractive, especially those of the saddlers and harness
makers, where the ingenious and practical shape of the goods, and their
rich ornamentation in Mexican style, were quite interesting.

Just at dusk I entered the old Cathedral, a relic of Spanish times. The
choir had in it the bishop's throne, and stalls for choristers. There
were some paintings, also, which looked as if they might, in a better
light, be worth seeing. But there was one thing there that possessed
more interest than aught else. It was a body, waiting for burial,
covered with a pall, and placed at the head of the centre aisle. It was
a message from another world, a _memento mori_, which could not be
thrust aside. How solemn it looked! and one thought of the long night
watches, and of those who would remain by its side until the light of
the next day should dawn, the Mass be said, and the grave receive the
clay until the vivifying morning of the Resurrection.

Leaving the Cathedral we again mingled in the crowded streets,
brilliant with electric lights, really now to be met with everywhere.
In our stroll we saw the outside of the Alamo, which has quite a
history. All had to wait, however, until next morning.

Here I may mention that our evenings on our car were always evenings at
home. We had many a pleasant hour together in fun and frolic, in
story-telling, in playing games, such as consequences and nonsense
verses; in occasional singing, and music on the reed organ, part of our
car belongings; but whatever we engaged in, we always brought