ing. But
the service itself,--in the character of the congregation, the mothers
with their babies, the young, restless lads, the old people of other
days and other climes, and the young people of California growth,--all
made up a most interesting study. The music was quite good, being
provided by some visitors from San Francisco; two ladies, whom we
afterward met, having voices of excellent tone and real culture. An
_Ave Maria_ and the _Sanctus_ were especially well sung. Father Burke
gave an offhand sermon, well arranged and thoughtful, suitable for
Christians of any orthodoxy whatever. It was good to hear him.

My German friend, after service, again invited me to call. It turned
out he was the tavern-keeper in the place; so after our pleasant midday
dinner on the "Lucania," we all adjourned to the hotel, where in the
parlor were the choir of the morning service, several other ladies and
gentlemen, and, taking his ease and enjoyment, also Father Burke. We
spent more than two hours in the happiest way. Stories were told and
songs were sung, and libations of the best California vintage were
offered us, all ending with "The Star Spangled Banner," sung by all
standing. I say all standing, for two ladies, said to be Spanish
sympathizers, remained seated glumly on a sofa, but were good-naturedly
drawn to their feet by a laughing companion, and made to assume the
virtue of patriotism if they had it not.

By this time the train was due, and Father Burke, the lady singers
from San Francisco, and their friends had to leave us, obedient to
the imperial mandate, "All aboard!"

My German friend again came to our assistance in the way of amusements,
and invited us into his hotel garden. It was a humble little enclosure,
but in the centre, coming up through some rock-work, there was an iron
jet which he let on, and made a fountain of for our pleasure, quite
refreshing to look at. The distant mountains, too, which appeared so
far away as one looked from the open plain, seemed here strangely near
and picturesque, when seen through the arched openings of the enclosing
trees. Our friend also had a surprise for us in some homing pigeons of
rare excellence, of which he was specially proud. He showed us his pet
prize winner with its eyes and carriage like a genius. He went in among
them, and seemed so tender with them, and interested in them, that it
was all a thing of poetry of the highest kind; the great tall man and
the fairy-like sha