given by her employers, the most
experienced cook will never be esteemed a profound palatician.

It will not go far to pacify the rage of a ravenous _gourmand_, who
likes his chops broiled brown, (and done enough, so that they can appear
at table decently, and not blush when they are cut,) to be told that
some of the customers at Dolly's chop-house choose to have them only
half-done, and that this is the best way of eating them.

We all think that is the best way which we relish best, and which agrees
best with our stomach: in this, reason and fashion, all-powerful as they
are on most occasions, yield to the imperative caprice of the palate.

_Chacun a son gout._

"THE IRISHMAN loves _Usquebaugh_, the SCOT loves ale call'd _Blue-cap_,
The WELCHMAN he loves _toasted cheese_, and makes his mouth like a
mouse-trap."

Our ITALIAN neighbours regale themselves with _macaroni_ and _parmesan_,
and eat some things which we call _carrion_.--Vide RAY'S _Travels_, p.
362 and 406.

While the ENGLISHMAN boasts of his _roast beef, plum pudding, and
porter_,

The FRENCHMAN feeds on his favourite _frog and soupe-maigre_,

The TARTAR feasts on _horse-flesh_,

The CHINAMAN on _dogs_,

The GREENLANDER preys on _garbage_ and _train oil_; and each "blesses
his stars, and thinks it luxury." What at one time or place is
considered as beautiful, fragrant, and savoury, at another is regarded
as deformed and disgustful.[51-*]

"Ask _a toad_ what is beauty, the supremely beautiful, the ~TO KALON~!
He will tell you it is _my wife_,--with two large eyes projecting out of
her little head, a broad and flat neck, yellow belly, and dark brown
back. With _a Guinea negro_, it is a greasy black skin, hollow eyes, and
a flat nose. Put the question to the _devil_, and he will tell you that
BEAUTY is a pair of horns, four claws, and a tail."--VOLTAIRE'S _Philos.
Dict._ 8vo. p. 32.

"_Asafoetida_ was called by the ancients 'FOOD FOR THE GODS.' The
Persians, Indians, and other Eastern people, now eat it in sauces, and
call it by that name: the Germans call it _devil's dung_."--_Vide_ POMET
_on Drugs_.

Garlic and clove, or allspice, combined in certain proportions, produce
a flavour very similar to asafoetida.

The organ of taste is more rarely found in perfection, and is sooner
spoiled by the operations of time, excessive use, &c. than either of our
other senses.

There are as various degrees of sensibility of palate as there are o