famous Mount St.
Michel, a few miles only to the eastward, and famed of all, historian,
ecclesiast, artist, and mere pleasure-seeker, alike. Most writers are
pleased to refer to the confiding attitude of mine host, who conducts
the principal hostelry on the Mount, and who guilelessly asks the wary
traveller (ofttimes they _are_ wary) what he has partaken of during his
stay, and makes up the account accordingly. This is, perhaps, not the
least of attributive charms, though it should be a minor one where this
wonderful and real Mount, which takes its name from legendary St.
Michel, is concerned. Indeed, leaving the cathedrals at Rouen, Chartres,
and Le Mans out of the question, it is doubtful if the Abbey of Mont St.
Michel is not the chief remaining architectural glory of the middle
ages, west of Paris.

It is but a short distance from St. Malo to St. Servan, but what a
difference! It is called by the French themselves the daughter of St.
Malo,--the "faubourg grown into a city."

Rabida's "Bretagne" states that there are "nombreux des Anglais a St.
Servan, des jeunes gens vivant dans les pensions brittaniques--des
familles venant l'ete faire en Bretagne une cure d'economies pour
l'hiver." Continuing, this discerning author says: "Bathers, bicyclists,
golfists, promenaders, and excursionists abound." Better then let them
hold forth here to their hearts' content; there is little that the lover
of churches will gain from what remains to-day of the town's former
Cathedral of St. Pierre.

XII

TREGUIER

This old cathedral city, at the junction of two small streamlets, a
short distance from the sea, lies perhaps a dozen miles away from the
nearest railway. With St. Pol de Leon and St. Brieuc it is, in local
characteristics and customs alike, a something apart from any other
community in northern France. The Bretons are commonly accredited as
being a most devout race, and certainly devotion could take no more
marked turn than the many evidences here to be seen in this "land of
Calvaries." St. Brieuc is a bishopric, suffragan of Rennes, whose
cathedral is a hideous modern structure of the early nineteenth century
quite unworthy as a shrine; but Treguier's power waned with the
Revolution. Its fourteenth-century church, however, is sufficiently
remarkable by reason of its situation and surroundings, none the less
than in its fabric, to warrant a deviation from well-worn roads in
order to visit it. Chiefly of a late