holy city of St. Pol de Leon, its _clochers_
dominating, by day at least, both land and sea. It contains the famous
"Kreisker," a name which sounds as though it were Dutch or North German,
which it probably is along with other place names on the near-by coast,
such as Grouin, St. Vaast, Roscoff, and La Hougue.

The tower and spire of this wonderful "Kreisker" rise boldly, from the
transept crossing, in remarkable fashion, and as a marvel of
construction may be said to far outrank the cathedral structure itself.
"Curious and clever" well describes it. As for the former cathedral over
which the Kreisker throws its shadow, it is one of those majestic
twin-towered structures not usually associated with what, when compared
with the larger French towns, must perforce rank as a mere village.

There is much to be said in favour of these little-known near-by places,
namely, that the charm of their attractions amply repays one for any
special labour involved in getting to them, with the additional
advantage, regardless of the fact that a stranger appears somewhat to
the native as a curiosity, that they are "good value for the money
paid." Perhaps the cheapest Continental tour, of say three weeks, that
could be taken, amid a constantly changing environment, if one so
choose, would comprehend this land of Calvaries.

The two cathedral towers of early Gothic flank a generous porch. There
is good glass throughout the church, the circular "rose" of the transept
being a magnificent composition in a granite framing. The nave is of
thirteenth-century Gothic, from the south aisle of which projects a
large chapel dedicated to St. Michael. The double-aisled choir is
garnished with sculptured stalls of the fifteenth century, and,
separated from its aisles by a stone screen, is of much larger
proportions than the nave, and likewise of a later epoch of building.
The apse is flamboyant, as are also the windows of the south transept.
In the chapels are various vaults and tombs, remarkably well preserved,
but of no special moment. In one of these chapels, however, is a curious
painting in the vaulting, representing a "Trinity" possessing three
faces, disposed in the form of a trefoil with three eyes only. A ribbon
or "_banderalle_" bears an inscription in Gothic characters; in the
Breton tongue, "_Ma Donez_" (Mon Dieu).

XV

ST. CORENTIN DE QUIMPER

"C'est Quimper, ce melange du passe et du present." A true enough
description of mo