I could, managed to follow it; and on the top of a pile of rope
and empty flour-sacks we rolled landward. The surf was high; it cost
much yelling, leaping, and splashing to gain the dry beach. Meanwhile,
not without apprehension, I had eyed the group awaiting our arrival;
that they had their eyes on me was obvious, and I knew enough of
southern Italians to foresee my reception. I sprang into the midst of a
clamorous conflict; half a dozen men were quarreling for possession of
me. No sooner was my luggage on shore than they flung themselves upon
it. By what force of authority I know not, one of the fellows
triumphed; he turned to me with a satisfied smile, and--presented his
wife.

"_Mia sposa, signore_!"

Wondering, and trying to look pleased, I saw the woman seize the
portmanteau (a frightful weight), fling it on to her head, and march
away at a good speed. The crowd and I followed to the _dogana_, close
by, where as vigorous a search was made as I have ever had to undergo.
I puzzled the people; my arrival was an unwonted thing, and they felt
sure I was a trader of some sort. Dismissed under suspicion, I allowed
the lady to whom I had been introduced to guide me townwards. Again she
bore the portmanteau on her head, and evidently thought it a trifle,
but as the climbing road lengthened, and as I myself began to perspire
in the warm sunshine, I looked at my attendant with uncomfortable
feelings. It was a long and winding way, but the woman continued to
talk and laugh so cheerfully that I tried to forget her toil. At length
we reached a cabin where the _dazio_ (town dues) officer presented
himself, and this conscientious person insisted on making a fresh
examination of my baggage; again I explained myself, again I was eyed
suspiciously; but he released me, and on we went. I had bidden my guide
take me to the best inn; it was the _Leone_, a little place which
looked from the outside like an ill-kept stable, but was decent enough
within. The room into which they showed me had a delightful prospect.
Deep beneath the window lay a wild, leafy garden, and lower on the
hillside a lemon orchard shining with yellow fruit; beyond, the broad
pebbly beach, far seen to north and south, with its white foam edging
the blue expanse of sea. There I descried the steamer from which I had
landed, just under way for Sicily. The beauty of this view, and the
calm splendour of the early morning, put me into happiest mood. After
little delay