been one of the most important penal settlements in Australia, but had to
be abandoned on account of the prevalence of malarial fever arising from
the swamps in the neighbourhood. I came across a number of graves, which
were evidently those of the exiled settlers; and one of the wooden
headstones bore the name of Captain Hill (I think that was the name). I
have an idea that the fence round this old cemetery still remained. There
was food in abundance at this place--raspberries, bananas, and mangoes
grew in profusion; whilst the marshes were inhabited by vast flocks of
geese, ducks, white ibis, and other wild-fowl. Indeed in the swamps the
birds rose in such prodigious numbers as actually to obscure the face of
the sun. Here for the first time I saw web-footed birds perched in
trees.

The blacks had a very peculiar method of catching water-fowl. They would
simply wade through the reeds into the water almost up to their necks,
and then cover their heads with a handful of reeds. Remaining perfectly
still, they would imitate the cry of different wild-fowl. Then at a
convenient opportunity, they would simply seize a goose or a duck by the
leg, and drag it down under the water until it was drowned. The number
of water-fowl caught in this way by a single black fellow was truly
astonishing.

After having remained a fortnight at Port Essington itself, we returned
to Raffles Bay, where Yamba and I made a camp among the blacks and took
up our residence among them; for Captain Davis had told me that ships
called there occasionally, and it was possible that one might call soon
from Port Darwin. The vessels, he added, came for buffalo meat--of which
more hereafter. I had decided to remain among these people some little
time, because they knew so much about Europeans, and I felt sure of
picking up knowledge which would prove useful to me.

CHAPTER VIII

In the throes of fever--A ghastly discovery--Pitiful relics--A critical
moment--Yamba in danger--A blood bath--A luxury indeed--Signs of
civilisation--The great storm--Drifting, drifting--Yamba's mysterious
glee--A dreadful shock--"Welcome home!"--My official protectors--Myself
as a cannibal war chief--Preparations for battle--A weird
apparition--Generosity to the vanquished--The old desire.

I had not been established in this camp many days, however, before I was
struck down, for the first time, with a terrible attack of malarial
fever, probably produced by th