l in our turn had a hug at him. He
was a dirty-looking boy, about thirteen years of age, shabbily dressed,
and who, it was said, has never been known to laugh out. After the usual
greeting, and sprinkling of scents, we could see his rancour working
within him. It was Sir John who had given his troops such a drubbing,
and he could not, even on this occasion, conceal the hatred that rankled
in his heart towards the English. The recollection of the disastrous
defeat of his troops rushed across his mind, no doubt, the moment he saw
Sir John Malcolm, and it left evident traces on his features, that
indicated the most malevolent feelings towards his visitors. It appeared
to be with difficulty that he could behave with decent civility; but,
from fear of offending the British resident, he was compelled, with his
courtiers and ministers, to affect a cordiality which he did not feel.
Sir John Malcolm, however, soon disturbed their ceremonious gravity,
which he converted into peals of laughter, so that the room resounded
with shouts of merriment; and the before frowning rajah, who was reputed
unable to laugh, actually threw himself on his back, and laughed most
lustily. It was a considerable time before we could re-establish order;
after which, an interesting conversation took place, which was followed
by the distribution of presents, in which the young rajah was liberal,
and we broke up much more friendly than we had met. We all returned to
the resident's house, to a most splendid dinner.

On the following morning we bade farewell to our hospitable friends, Sir
John Malcolm and Mr. Wellesley, and bent our way towards Ougein by
forced marches, to make up for the time we had spent at Mhow and Indore.
The Bengal division did not return with us, but went the direct road to
Saugar, where they arrived some days before us. In two days we reached
Ougein, and encamped in a small tope of trees, about a mile from the
city, which is situated on the banks of the river Scend, opposite to
which are the beautiful and extensive gardens, once the favourite resort
of Scindia, but which, of late years, he has not visited. The once
splendid palace of this ancient city has been actually permitted to
tumble to pieces, and this seat of oriental magnificence may now be said
to be the habitation of snakes, scorpions, and every kind of reptiles.
The beautiful pleasure-grounds are still kept in some kind of order, as
they are the haunts of mendicant priests,