e traders were willing to undergo the
risque, from the cheapness of the commodity they were in quest of.
It is a most sorry place, with scarce a vestige of vegetation upon its
surface, and its inhabitants apparently live in the greatest misery. They
are governed by a black man, subject to the administration of St. Jago.
The military force of St. Jago is by no means either formidable in numbers
or discipline, and exhibits a most complete picture of despicable
wretchedness.
A black officer, of the name of Vincent, conducted as to the governor, who
received us with politeness, and gave us an invitation to dinner. The town
and garrison were quite in a state of activity and bustle; an officer of
high rank and long residence among them had just paid the debt of nature,
and his body was laid in state in the chapel, in all his paraphernalia. The
greater part of the monks from the monastery of St. Jago were assembled
upon the occasion, to sing requiems for his soul; and the scene was truly
solemn and impressive. We met these ministers of religion at dinner, but
how changed from that gravity of demeanor which distinguished them in
their acts of external worship. The governor's excellent Madeira was taken
in the most genuine spirit of devotion, accompanied by fervent exclamations
upon its excellent qualities. Upon perceiving this holy fervency in the
pious fraternity, we plied them closely, and frequently joined them in
flowing bumpers, until their ardour began to sink into brutal stupidity,
and the morning's hymns were changed into revelry and bacchanalian roar.
[Illustration: POGO, bearing N. by W. distance about 4 leagues from B
Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W Nicol]
[Illustration: 3 ISLAND of ST. IAGO, distance 6 Miles. 4. PAPS of CAPE
VERDE, bearing at C, _N.N.E._ and at D, _S.E._ by _S._ distance 3 leagues.
Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W Nicol]
This, however, was rather a tax upon the governor's hospitality, as it
deprived him of his _Ciesta_, a common practice with him, almost
immediately after the cloth is withdrawn. When we came ashore the next
morning, we were highly entertained with the anecdotes related to us of the
pranks performed during the night by the convivial priests, many of whom
were unable to fulfil the duties of the altar at the usual hour of prayer.
The natives of St. Jago, with those of the neighbouring islands, are mostly
black, or of a mixed colour, very encroaching in their mann
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