the road is flanked on either side by a
perpendicular rock of from six to eight hundred feet elevation. The
ancient capital of Castile is visible from a considerable distance, when
approached in this direction; being easily recognised by the spires of
its cathedral, and by the citadel placed on an eminence, which forms a
link of a chain of hills crossing the route at this spot.

The extent of Burgos bears a very inadequate proportion to the idea
formed of it by strangers, derived from its former importance and
renown. It is composed of five or six narrow streets, winding round the
back of an irregularly shaped colonnaded plaza. The whole occupies a
narrow space, comprised between the river Arlancon, and the almost
circular hill of scarcely a mile in circumference, (on which stands the
citadel) and covers altogether about double the extent of Windsor
Castle.

The city has received a sort of modern facing, consisting of a row of
regularly built white houses, which turn their backs to the Plaza, and
front the river; uniting at one extremity with an ancient gateway,
which, facing the principal bridge, must originally have stood slightly
in advance of the town, to which it formed a very characteristic
entrance. It is a quadrangular edifice, pierced with a low semicircular
arch. The arch is flanked on the river front by small circular turrets,
and surmounted by seven niches, containing statues of magistrates,
kings, and heroes; while over these, in a centre niche, stands a
semicolossal statue of the Virgin, from which the monument derives its
title of "Arco de Santa Maria." Another arch, but totally simple,
situated at the other extremity of the new buildings, faces another
bridge; and this, with that of Santa Maria, and a third, placed halfway
between them, leading to the Plaza, form the three entrances to the city
on the river side.

[Illustration: ARCO DE SANTA MARIA.]

The dimensions of this, and many other Spanish towns, must not be
adopted as a base for estimating their amount of population. Irun, at
the frontier of France, stands on a little hill, the surface of which
would scarcely suffice for a country-house, with its surrounding
offices and gardens: it contains, nevertheless, four or five thousand
inhabitants, and comprises a good-sized market-place and handsome
town-hall, besides several streets. Nor does this close packing render
the Spanish towns less healthy than our straggling cities, planned with
a view