uch as are accustomed to the vicissitudes of travelling. The repast
over, all gradually retire to their sleeping apartments, where they are
undisturbed until two o'clock in the morning.

At this hour each passenger is furnished with a candle, and requested to
get up; and at a quarter to three the _muchacha_ (chambermaid)
reappears, bearing in her hand a plate, on which, after rubbing his
eyes, the traveller may discover, if it be allowed so to speak, an
imperceptible cup, a _xicara_,--since, having the thing, they have a
name for it, which is of course untranslateable,--of excellent
chocolate, an _azucarillo_ (almost transparent sugar prepared for
instantaneous melting), a glass of water, and a piece of bread. After
partaking of this agreeable refreshment, you have just time left to pay
your bill, fold up your passport, which during the night has remained in
the hands of the police, and to take your seat in the Diligence.

The towns of the Basque provinces appear not to have been much
maltreated during the Carlist war; not so the villages, most of which
present a melancholy aspect of ruin and desolation. The churches, built
so as to appear more like keeps of castles, have mostly withstood the
shock. The destruction was oftener the result of burning than of
artillery. The lover of the picturesque offers his silent gratitude to
the combatants on both sides, for sparing, although unintentionally,
some of the most charming objects of all Spain.

Among the most striking of these is Hernani. It is composed of one
street, of the exact required width for the passage of an ordinary
vehicle. This street is a perfect specimen of picturesque originality.
The old facades are mostly emblazoned with the bearings of their ancient
proprietors, sculptured in high relief. On entering the place, the
effect is that of a deep twilight after the broad blaze of the sunny
mountains. This is caused by the almost flat roofs, which advance
considerably beyond the fronts of the houses, and nearly meet in the
centre of the street: the roof of each house is either higher or lower,
or more or less projecting, than its neighbour; and all are supported by
carved woodwork, black from age. The street terminates on the brow of a
hill, and widens at the end, so as to form a small square, one
retreating side of which is occupied by the front of a church covered
with old sculpture; and the diligence, preceded by its long team of
tinkling mules, disappears t