in which we had experienced such misery. There was this great
blessing, that we were once more united; an immense satisfaction in the
desert, and which we had never sufficiently appreciated until the
occurrence of the mischance that had for a while separated us. We
celebrated the occasion by a splendid banquet, of which the flour and
sheep's liver, purchased by M. Gabet, formed the basis. This
unaccustomed treat relaxed the frowning brow of Samdadchiemba, who
applied himself to the culinary arrangements with absolute enthusiasm,
and effected, with very limited resources, a supper of several courses.
Next morning, at daybreak, we were in motion. We had not proceeded far
when we discovered before us, outlined on the yellow ground of a sandy
hill, several large buildings, surrounded with a multitude of white huts.
This was the Lamasery of Rache-Tchurin, which, as we approached it,
seemed to us a well-built, well-kept place. The three Buddhist temples
which rise from the centre of the establishment, are of elegant, of
majestic construction. The entrance to the principal temple is through a
square tower of colossal proportions, at each angle of which is a
monstrous dragon, elaborately carved in stone. We traversed the Lamasery
from one end to the other, along the chief streets. There was throughout
religious and solemn silence. The only persons we saw were a few Lamas
enveloped in their large red scarfs, who, after giving us the salutation
of the day in a tone scarce above a whisper, gravely continued their
melancholy walk.
[Picture: Lamasery of Rache-Tchurin]
Towards the western extremity of the Lamasery, Samdadchiemba's little
mule shied, and then dashed off at a gallop, followed in its irregular
flight, by the two baggage camels. The animals on which we were mounted
were equally alarmed. All this disorder was occasioned by a young Lama,
who was stretched at full length in the middle of the street, performing
a rite in great vogue among the Buddhists, and which consists in making
the circuit of a Lamasery, prostrating yourself, with your forehead to
the ground, at every single step you make. Sometimes the number of
devotees performing together this painful pilgrimage is perfectly
prodigious; they follow each other, in Indian file, along a narrow path
which encircles the entire Lamasery and its appendant buildings. Any one
who deviates in the slightest degree from the prescribed line, is
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