unding down the ages, my companion turned my thoughts from
unrealised dreams of religion to those of politics. Along these waters
that cast their spray on the ancient ruin, James Hepburn, Earl of
Bothwell, third husband of Queen Mary, fled in hot haste, with a
pursuing squadron at his heels, in the year 1567. Kirkaldy of Grange
entered the Sound of Bressay as Bothwell was leaving by the northern
exit.

Our walk lasted about four hours, and ended up in the school-house,
where the teacher's hospitable dame regaled us to a welcome and
excellent cup of tea. It did us good after the strain of so many
reminiscences. The teacher is a hearty and sociable gentleman, who loves
his books and his fireside. On the fine Saturdays, friends ferry across
from Lerwick for a round of golf with him over the Bressay links. The
fine library, recently sent from Paisley, furnishes a pleasant variety
of reading both for himself and his pupils. On my remarking that, as
chairman at the lecture next evening, he need not speak more than thirty
minutes, he replied, with visible emotion, that he would concentrate his
remarks into a space of thirty seconds.

We got back to Lerwick in a lugsail that was full of passengers,
potatoes, and milk-cans. There was a good deal of loud, elementary chaff
during the twenty minutes' crossing. An old, wrinked, peat-smoked dame
gave us much good advice and (better still) a sprig of white heather
apiece. I found by subsequent experience that the trip is not always so
amusing. Next evening a boatman pulled us over, and it was stiff work
for him, as the Sound was lumpy and the wind contrary. Coming back, he
hoisted his sail, and we careered over in rollicking style. I was a
little scared at the swift-rushing currents and the switchback motion of
the boat. Overhead were moon, stars, and flying clouds; the hulls of big
steamers loomed like phantoms on the surface of the Sound; on the hill
opposite twinkled the ever-nearing light of Lerwick.

Bressay, I may add, has a nice little hall, with all items of modern
convenience, including ventilation. The building is used for every
legitimate purpose, from worship to _weel-timed daffin'_.

FROM LERWICK TO SANDWICK.

I have a vivid recollection of a day's drive from Lerwick to Sandwick,
down the long, narrow peninsula that terminates in Sumburgh head. I was
accompanied by the reverend gentleman already alluded to in connection
with Bressay.

It is a common saying in the