arth the fuss was about.

On the other hand, I was well received by one of the revolted tribes,
which had chased its lawful Kaid into Mogador until checked by old
scrap-iron and bits of bottle-glass from the ancient cannon mounted over
the northern gate of the town.

I was treated with far more hospitality than my absurd and rather rash
enterprise deserved. Imagine a callow youth just out of his teens
dropping in haphazard on a rebel tribe accompanied by a mission-taught
Moor and a large liver-coloured pointer who had far more sense than his
master. My tame Moor was an excellent fellow, who, beside keeping my
tent tidy and cooking, helped me to grapple with the derived forms of
the Arabic verb and the subtleties of Moorish etiquette. I learnt to
drink green tea, syrup-sweet and flavoured with mint, out of ornate
little tumblers of a size and shape usually associated with champagne,
and, after assiduous practice, I could tackle a dish of boiled millet,
meat, and olives with the fingers of my right hand without mishap.

Beyond occasional brushes with adjacent sections of the neighbouring
tribe which had declared for the Fez central Government, I had very
little trouble, except that a peaceful boar-hunt would occasionally
degenerate into an intertribal skirmish if I and my party got too near
the loyalist border. As all concerned had, thanks to Western enterprise,
discarded their picturesque flint-locks in favour of Winchester or
Marlin repeaters, the proceedings required wary handling if we were to
extricate ourselves successfully, but my long-range sporting Martini
usually gave me the weather-gauge.

I dressed as a Moor, and looked the part, but made no attempt to pass
for anything but a Christian, nor did any unpopularity attach thereto; I
was merely expected--as a natural corollary--to have a little medical
knowledge (and it _was_ a little).

I found the attitude of Moors generally towards Christians curiously
inconsistent. In the towns there was a certain amount of formal
fanaticism which found vent in donkey-drivers addressing their beasts as
"_Nasara_" to the accompaniment of whacks and yells, but public
behaviour was tolerant enough, and the attitude of Moorish officialdom
was almost courtly.

Jews had rather a bad time, if local subjects, as their black slippers
and furtive bearing outside their own quarter made them a mark for
naughty little boys, who flung their canary-coloured slippers at them
with curses