your machine elsewhere. It is
called the Lord Warden Hotel, and is just off the admiralty pier
head. It suited us very well in spite of the fact that the old-school
Englishman contemptuously refers to it as a place for brides and for
seasick Frenchmen waiting the prospect of a fair crossing by the
Calais packet.
The descent into Dover's lower town from the downs above is fraught
with considerable danger for the automobilist. It is steep, winding,
and narrow, and one climbs out of it again the next morning by an
equally steep, though less narrow, road up over the Shakespeare Cliff
and down again abruptly into Folkestone.
Dover is not fashionable as a resort, and its one pretentious
sea-front hotel is not a lovely thing--most sea-front hotels are not.
In spite of this there is vastly more of interest going on, with the
coming and going of the great liners and the cross-channel boats of
the harbour, than is to be found in a mere watering-place, where band
concerts, parade-walks, "nigger minstrels," tea fights, and
excursions in the neighbourhood are the chief attractions which are
advertised, and are fondly believed by the authorities to be
sufficient to draw the money-spending crowds.
Dover is a very interesting place; the Shakespeare Cliff dominates
it on one side and the old castle ruin on the other, to-day as they
did when the first of the Cinq-Ports held England's destiny in the
hollow of her hand. Sir Walter Raleigh prayed his patron Elizabeth to
strengthen her fortifications here and formulate plans for a great
port. Much was done by her, but a fitting realization of Dover's
importance as a deep-water port has only just come to pass, and then
only because of a significant hint from the German emperor.
Shakespeare's, or Lear's, Cliff at Dover is one of the first things
to which the transatlantic up-channel traveller's attention is
called. Blind old Gloster has thus described it:
"There is a cliff whose high and bending head
Looks fearfully into the confined deep."
The English War Department of today, it is rumoured, would erase this
landmark, because the cliff obstructs the range of heavy guns, thus
jeopardizing the defence of Dover; but there are those who, knowing
that chalk is valuable, suggest that commercialism is at the
foundation of the scheme for destroying the cliff. The Dover
corporation has accordingly passed a resolution of remonstrance
against the destruction of what they claim "would
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