e Emperor and Empress, also
the Queen of Spain. The face of Louis Napoleon was indeed somewhat
changed since I saw him in London in 1848, but it had not improved so
much as his circumstances, as he was according to external appearances
and popular belief now extremely well off. But appearances are
deceptive, as was soon proved, for he was in reality on the verge of a
worse bankruptcy than even his uncle underwent, for the nephew lost not
only kingdom and life, but also every trace of reputation for wisdom and
honesty, remaining to history only as a brazen royal adventurer and
"copper captain."

In Rome our dear old friend Mrs. John Grigg showed us, as I said, many
kind attentions, which she has, in Florence, continued to this day. This
lady is own aunt to my old school friend General George B. McClellan. At
an advanced age she executes without glasses the most exquisite
embroidery conceivable, and her heart and intellect are in keeping with
her sight.

VIII. ENGLAND. 1870.

The Trubners--George Eliot and G. H. Lewes--Heseltine--Edwards--Etched by
Bracquemond and Legros--Jean Ingelow--Tennyson--Hepworth Dixon--Lord
Lytton the elder--Lord Houghton--Bret Harte--France, Alsace, and
Lorraine--Samuel Laing--Gypsies--The Misses Horace Smith--Brighton and
odd fish--Work and books--Hunting--Dore--Art and
Nature--Taglioni--Chevalier Wykoff--Octave Delepierre--Breitmann--Thomas
Carlyle--George Borrow--A cathedral tour round about England--Salisbury,
Wells, and York.

It is pleasant being anywhere in England in June, and the passing from
picturesque Dover to London through laughing Kent is a good introduction
to the country. The untravelled American, fresh from the "boundless
prairies" and twenty-thousand-acre fields of wheat, sees nothing in it
all but the close cultivation of limited land; but the tourist from the
Continent perceives at once that, with most careful agriculture, there
are indications of an exuberance of wealth, true comfort, and taste
rarely seen in France or Germany. The many trees of a better quality and
slower growth than the weedy sprouting poplar and willow of Normandy; the
hedges, which are very beautiful and ever green; the flowerbeds and walks
about the poorest cottage; the neatly planted, prettily bridged side
roads, all indicate a superiority of wealth or refinement such as
prevails only in New England, or rather which _did_ prevail, until the
native population, going westward, was s