rly prohibited--which had been struck during the brief period
of the Polish revolution.

The Pole began to prepare _his_ coffee--for one. I saw that something
must be done to increase the number of cups. He took up his book of
prayers and asked of what religion we were. Of Pottinger I said
contemptuously, "He is nothing but a heretic," but that as for myself, I
had for some time felt a great inclination towards the _Panna_--Holy
Virgin--and that it would afford me great pleasure to conform to the
Polish Catholic Church, but that unfortunately I did not understand the
language. To which he replied, that if _he_ were to read the morning
service in Polish and I would repeat it word by word, that the _Panna_
would count it to my credit just as if I had. And as I was praying in
good earnest for a breakfast, I trust that it was accepted. Down on our
knees we went and began our orisons.

"Leland! you --- humbug!" exclaimed Pottinger.

"Go away, you infernal heretic, and don't disturb Christians at their
devotions!" was my devout reply. So, prayers concluded, there _was_
coffee and rolls for three. And so in due time the coach returned. I
rewarded our host with a thaler, and we returned to Breslau, of which
place I noted that the natives never ate anything but sweet cakes for
their first morning meal.

We stopped at Gorlitz, where I asked a woman standing in the half-doorway
of the house of Jacob Bohme if that was his house. But she had never
heard of such a man!

Dresden we thoroughly explored, and were at Leipzig during the great
annual fair. These fairs, in those days, were sights to behold. Now
they are succeeded by stupendous Expositions, which are far finer and
inconceivably greater, yet which to me lack that kind of gypsy,
side-show, droll, old-fashioned attraction of the ancient gatherings,
even as Barnum's Colossal Moral Show of half-a-dozen circuses at once and
twenty-five elephants does not _amuse_ anybody as the old clown in the
ring and one elephant did of yore.

Thence to Berlin, where we were received with joy by the American
students, who knew all about one another all over Germany. I very much
enjoyed the great art gallery, and the conversation of those who, like
myself, followed lectures on AEsthetics and the history of art. Thence
to Magdeburg and Hanover, Dusseldorf--to cut it short, Holland and the
chief cities in Belgium.

I noted one little change of custom in Berlin. In South Germa