the river, with its imposing chapel, a landmark in the valley
of the Adur and far out to sea.

[Illustration: _Lancing._]

CHAPTER XVII

BRIGHTON

A decline in interest--The storied past of Brighton--Dr. Russell's
discovery--The First Gentleman in Europe--The resources of the
Steyne--Promenade Grove--A loyal journalist--The Brighton
bathers--Smoaker and Martha Gunn--The Prince and cricket--The
Nonpareil at work--Byron at Brighton--Hazlitt's observation--Horace
Smith's verses--Sidney Smith on the M.C.--Captain Tattersall--Pitt
and the heckler--Dr. Johnson in the sea--Mrs. Pipchin and Dr.
Blimber--The Brighton fishermen--Richard Jefferies on the town--The
Cavalier--Mr. Booth's birds--Old Pottery.

Brighton is interesting only in its past. To-day it is a suburb, a lung,
of London; the rapid recuperator of Londoners with whom the pace has
been too severe; the Mecca of day-excursionists, the steady friend of
invalids and half-pay officers. It is vast, glittering, gay; but it is
not interesting.

To persons who care little for new towns the value of Brighton lies in
its position as the key to good country. In a few minutes one can travel
by train to the Dyke, and leaving booths and swings behind, be free of
miles of turfed Down or cultivated Weald; in a few minutes one can reach
Hassocks, the station for Wolstonbury and Ditchling Beacon; in a few
minutes one can gain Falmer and plunge into Stanmer Park; or, travelling
to the next station, correct the effect of Brighton's hard brilliance
amid the soothing sleepinesses of Lewes; in a few minutes on the western
line one can be at Shoreham, amid ship-builders and sail-makers, or on
the ramparts of Bramber Castle, or among the distractions of Steyning
cattle market, with Chanctonbury Ring rising solemnly beyond. Brighton,
however, knows little of these homes of peace, for she looks only out to
sea or towards London.

[Sidenote: BRIGHTON'S STORIED PAST]

Brighton was, however, interesting a hundred years ago; when the
Pavilion was the favourite resort of the First Gentleman in Europe
(whose opulent charms, preserved in the permanency of mosaic, may be
seen in the Museum); when the Steyne was a centre of fashion and folly;
coaches dashed out of Castle Square every morning and into Castle Square
every evening; Munden and Mrs. Siddons were to be seen at one or other
of the theatres; Martha Gunn dipped ladies in the sea; L