ty monument of this
victory, now serving, as all things earthly must one day serve, to
display the victory of time. We were forced to walk on this occasion, as
to have touched a saddle or animal would have exposed us to the
penalties of quarantine. Our good friend Achmet walked before with a
long stick, booming the people off, who shrank from our contact right
and left, as if we had been the lords of the soil, or as if it had been
_they_, instead of us, who had to fear the plague-compromising touch.
And then when we returned hungry as hunters from our march, full of
ready forgiveness for any faults of cookery, what a banquet was that
which consular hospitality had prepared! Oh, the jocosity of that
breakfast, which was in the open air, because we could not go into the
house, where we could take nothing from, and could give nothing to, the
ladies, but had to keep them at most respectful distance, and be civil
under the control of a vigilant _guardiano_.

There is no mode of travelling which can possibly be compared to this
boat-work. The scope of such proceeding is certainly, by comparison,
confined; but, so far as it goes, nothing is to be mentioned in the same
day with it--that is, so far as comfort is concerned. Places even inland
may be visited in this way, for almost any where a horse or two can be
mustered, and the craft left in charge of her crew. What a difference
between turning into your own berth at night, and affording the
amusement one does on shore to the Hellenic vermin. One good joke in
this way happened to me once upon a time, showing what quarters
travellers may stumble upon even with the best recommendations. A large
party of us had started, particularly recommended by letter from the
consular agent of a place that shall be nameless, to no less a person
than the Demarch of a high-sounding Greek town, who was to do every
thing for us in the way of billeting. By great exertion, and with aching
bones, we managed to reach this place after night-fall, prolonging, for
its hope's sake, our course through a most break-neck road, and through
unseen but clamorous numbers of their wolf-like dogs. At last we came up
with a miserable shed, which proved to be the mansion of the great man.
Of course we should have looked for no other floor but the mudden one we
found, had it not been for our magnificent recommendation, which
warranted the expectation of a suite of apartments. But the floor was so
packed with goods an