likely to be useful or needful in the case of personal protection to
distressed wanderers, but no doubt not without value as a commercial
relationship. Magnesia also is interesting, because it is the seat of
the great Carasman, Oglu Pascha, a name to which are attached little
less than royal honours. He is one of the great hereditary dignitaries
of the kingdom, who, from olden time, and till but a few years ago, used
to be almost kings within their territory. At the command of the Sultan,
these men used to bring into the field enormous bodies of cavalry,
raised by themselves, forming the staple of the Ottoman armies; and Mr.
Slade, in his book on Turkey, places the alterations of Mahmoud with
respect to these Beys among the prominent causes of the decay of the
Ottoman empire.

The vote passed in favour of Magnesia; partly because we expected in
that place to find, through the good offices of the consular agent,
decent quarters in some Greek house. The question of ways and means
remained. The ordinary mode of conducting these proceedings is through
the ministry of a _Kawash_ or guide; a person whose assistance is
generally considered indispensable, in a country where one neither knows
the roads, nor can exchange a word of inquiry with the people. But this
plan was little suited to our taste, as we knew by experience that these
men are apt to assume the absolute control of their parties. In this
respect they are no worse than the other whole tribe of ciceroni, who
assuredly are among the greatest bores that necessity imposes. If they
would confine themselves to leading the way, and interpreting, and rest
contented with solicitude for the horses, they would be useful and
endurable. S---- forewent for a moment his amber mouthpiece to give us
his experience and opinion.

"These _kawashes_ are greater plagues on a journey than a pebble in the
shoe. When I was a youngster on board the Blanche, we started, a party
of us, for Aidin, under convoy of one of them with a first-rate
character. We had hardly got clear of the town when he began to take
command of us, coolly wanting to regulate our pace. We stood no
nonsense, but set off full cry, with him at our heels shouting like mad.
He was presently up with me, and caught my horse's bridle, uttering all
sorts of unintelligible exclamations. The fellow drew his yataghan, and
I really thought was going to cut my head off. However, he vented his
rage on the brute, striking him with