varied with a grating chirp.

The blackbird frequents houses here; its voice is very discordant and
singular, sparrow-hawks were seen to pursue wounded pigeons. Houses few,
built of unbaked and large bricks or rather cakes of mud. The village of
Wandipore is visible to the south-west, about one and a half mile. Snow
on ridges to west, all which are lofty. The country around Wandipore is
tolerably populous, though not so much so as about Santagoung.

We were compelled to halt at Phain or Thain, until the 1st instant, owing
to the admirable management of the Bhooteas. It appeared at first as if
the Zoompoor or Governor of Wandipore was determined that we should not
be gainers in time by not going through his castle, but subsequently it
turned out that the Deb had, with infinite consideration, wished us to
remain in order to rest ourselves after our long journey. This may have
been merely said to shelter the Wandipore man, who had the impudence to
send one evening to us saying, that the Deb and Durmah were coming to
Wandipore next morning, and that we were to meet them there, and return
the same evening to Punukha. This turned out untrue. Pemberton was at
last compelled to write to the Deb, and the consequence was the
arrangement for our advance next morning.

_April 1st_.--The march to Punukha extended over a most barren dried-up
country, the features presented were the same as those about Phain. We
proceeded at first in the direction of Wandipore, then diverged,
proceeding downwards in the direction of the villages. The remainder of
our journey extended either just above the base of the hills, or along
the valley: the distance was nine miles. The march was an uninteresting
one; the only pretty part being the river that drains the valley, and it
is one of considerable size, fordable in but few places; the rapids are
frequent, but the intermediate parts flow gently. We were all dreadfully
disappointed in the capital, the castle even is by no means so imposing
as that of Tongsa or Byagur; the city miserable, consisting of a few mean
houses, and about as many ruined ones.

The surrounding cultivation is chiefly poor wheat; the hills the most
barren conceivable. On arriving near the palace we made a detour, to
avoid exposure to the usual regal insolence: our plan was effectual. From
some distance I had espied our quarters, and although our mission is one
sent by the most powerful eastern government, yet we had