es,
to the characters and enterprises which he afterward depicted with
such truth of nature and poetical effect.
After leaving Rapthi, keeping Mount Pentilicus on the left, the
travellers came in sight of the ever-celebrated Plain of Marathon.
The evening being advanced, they passed the barrow of the Athenian
slain unnoticed, but next morning they examined minutely the field of
battle, and fancied they had made antiquarian discoveries. In their
return to Athens they inspected the different objects of research and
fragments of antiquity, which still attract travellers, and with the
help of Chandler and Pausanias, endeavoured to determine the local
habitation and the name of many things, of which the traditions have
perished and the forms have relapsed into rock.
Soon after their arrival at Athens, Mr Hobhouse left Lord Byron to
visit the Negropont, where he was absent some few days. I think he
had only been back three or four when I arrived from Zante. My visit
to Athens at that period was accidental. I had left Malta with the
intention of proceeding to Candia, by Specia, and Idra; but a
dreadful storm drove us up the Adriatic, as far as Valona; and in
returning, being becalmed off the Island of Zante, I landed there,
and allowed the ship, with my luggage, to proceed to her destination,
having been advised to go on by the Gulf of Corinth to Athens; from
which place, I was informed, there would be no difficulty in
recovering my trunks.
In carrying this arrangement into effect, I was induced to go aside
from the direct route, and to visit Velhi Pasha, at Tripolizza, to
whom I had letters. Returning by Argos and Corinth, I crossed the
isthmus, and taking the road by Megara, reached Athens on the 20th of
February. In the course of this journey, I heard of two English
travellers being in the city; and on reaching the convent of the
Propaganda, where I had been advised to take up my lodgings, the
friar in charge of the house informed me of their names. Next
morning, Mr Hobhouse, having heard of my arrival, kindly called on
me, and I accompanied him to Lord Byron, who then lodged with the
widow of a Greek, who had been British Consul. She was, I believe, a
respectable person, with several daughters; one of whom has been
rendered more famous by his Lordship's verses than her degree of
beauty deserved. She was a pale and pensive-looking girl, with
regular Grecian features. Whether he really cherished any sincere
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