village, stood a schoolhouse, and from
that spot the view was very extensive. To the west are lofty
mountains, ranging from north to south, near the coast; to the east a
grand romantic prospect in the distance, and in the foreground a
green valley, with a considerable river winding through a long line
of country.

They had some difficulty in procuring horses at Catoona, and in
consequence were detained until past eleven o'clock the next morning,
and only travelled four hours that day to Makala, a well-built stone
village, containing about forty houses distinct from each other, and
inhabited by Greeks, who were a little above the condition of
peasants, being engaged in pasturage and a small wool-trade.

The travellers were now in Carnia, where they found the inhabitants
much better lodged than in the Albanian villages. The house in which
they slept at this place resembled those old mansions which are to be
met with in the bottoms of the Wiltshire Downs. Two green courts,
one before and the other behind, were attached to it, and the whole
was surrounded by a high and thick wall, which shut out the prospect,
but was necessary in a country so frequently overrun by strong bands
of freebooters.

From Makala they proceeded through the woods, and in the course of
their journey passed three new-made graves, which the Albanians
pointing at as they rode by, said they were "robbers." In the course
of the journey they had a distant view of the large town of Vraikore,
on the left bank of the Aspro, but they did not approach it, crossing
the river by a ferry to the village of Gouria, where they passed the
night.

Leaving that place in the morning, they took an easterly direction,
and continued to ride across a plain of cornfields, near the banks of
the river, in a rich country; sometimes over stone causeways, and
between the hedges of gardens and olive-groves, until they were
stopped by the sea. This was that fruitful region formerly called
Paracheloitis, which, according to classic allegory, was drained or
torn from the river Achelous, by the perseverance of Hercules and
presented by him for a nuptial present to the daughter of Oeneus.

The water at which they had now arrived was rather a salt marsh than
the sea, a shallow bay stretching from the mouth of the Gulf of
Lepanto into the land for several miles. Having dismissed their
horses, they passed over in boats to Natolico, a town which stood in
the water. Here they f