little
island, poor Marguerite, whose timidity always acts as a feeler before
her adventuring spirit, began to wonder at our not seeing any
inhabitants. I did not listen to her. But when, on landing, the same
silence prevailed, I caught the alarm, which was not lessened by the
sight of two old men whom we forced out of their wretched hut. Scarcely
human in their appearance, we with difficulty obtained an intelligible
reply to our questions, the result of which was that they had no boat,
and were not allowed to quit their post on any pretence. But they
informed us that there was at the other side, eight or ten miles over, a
pilot's dwelling. Two guineas tempted the sailors to risk the captain's
displeasure, and once more embark to row me over.

The weather was pleasant, and the appearance of the shore so grand that I
should have enjoyed the two hours it took to reach it, but for the
fatigue which was too visible in the countenances of the sailors, who,
instead of uttering a complaint, were, with the thoughtless hilarity
peculiar to them, joking about the possibility of the captain's taking
advantage of a slight westerly breeze, which was springing up, to sail
without them. Yet, in spite of their good humour, I could not help
growing uneasy when the shore, receding, as it were, as we advanced,
seemed to promise no end to their toil. This anxiety increased when,
turning into the most picturesque bay I ever saw, my eyes sought in vain
for the vestige of a human habitation. Before I could determine what
step to take in such a dilemma (for I could not bear to think of
returning to the ship), the sight of a barge relieved me, and we hastened
towards it for information. We were immediately directed to pass some
jutting rocks, when we should see a pilot's hut.

There was a solemn silence in this scene which made itself be felt. The
sunbeams that played on the ocean, scarcely ruffled by the lightest
breeze, contrasted with the huge dark rocks, that looked like the rude
materials of creation forming the barrier of unwrought space, forcibly
struck me, but I should not have been sorry if the cottage had not
appeared equally tranquil. Approaching a retreat where strangers,
especially women, so seldom appeared, I wondered that curiosity did not
bring the beings who inhabited it to the windows or door. I did not
immediately recollect that men who remain so near the brute creation, as
only to exert themselves to find the f