land once did to see a railroad car, or as they do now to see a caravan
with elephants and camels. Horses and mules all along the road became
unmanageable. They would turn and look, with dilated nostrils and head
erect, while trembling in every limb, till the carriage almost reached
them, then they would break from their fastenings and gallop off,
neighing with fear. Then they would turn and look till we nearly reached
them again, when they darted away as before.

We reached the house of Mr. Thurston, at Kailua, about three o'clock in
the afternoon. It had a very desolate look, for it had been locked up
for a year. The venerable missionaries were then in California, on
account of the failure of Mr. T.'s health. There was no white face to
greet us, as at the other mission-stations, so we made ourselves as
comfortable as possible. Several natives called to see us, and a
venerable deacon sent us two fowls, some very fine watermelons, and
sweet potatoes. The melons were delicious, the soil of this part of the
islands being well adapted to them. Watermelons are even sent to the
San Francisco market.

The next day was Sabbath, the 12th of April, the forty-third anniversary
of the missionaries first landing on these islands, which occurred on
this very spot. We were interested in the fact that we should happen to
be there at that time.

We went to the stone church, a venerable edifice built in the old
style,--the pulpit and galleries being very high. Perhaps a thousand
natives were present, and they paid remarkable attention to all that was
said. After service, we shook hands with a large portion of the
audience. Most of the people came on horseback, and there must have been
as many as five hundred horses tied outside the church.

It was too far for us to go home before the afternoon service; so we
spent the time in visiting the graves of mission families near the
church. In the afternoon we partook of the communion with the
congregation. Every thing was conducted with great propriety. A native
evangelist has had the care of this church since Mr. T. left, and they
have well sustained their church and prayer-meetings, with very little
outside aid from missionaries.

We expected the steamer to call for us at any time after midnight, and
so slept with one eye and one ear open. About twenty asses were in a
pasture near us, and were braying all night long. We had little
refreshing sleep, and were glad to see the smoke of the