of study of the grammar are of no avail in a
country where even men of gentlemanly appearance turn away with childish
_ennui_ the instant they detect the foreigner, resolving apparently that
they cannot and _will not_ understand him. In matters like this the
ordinary Russian is more impatient and less intelligent than any Oriental
or even red Indian. The result of my interview with the waiter was that
we were soon involved in the completest misunderstanding on the subject
of gypsies. The question was settled by reference to a fat and fair
damsel, one of the "spoons" already referred to, who spoke German. She
explained to me that as it was Christmas Eve no gypsies would be there,
or at any other _cafe_. This was disappointing. I called Vassili, and
he drove on to another "garden," deeply buried in snow.

When I entered the rooms at this place, I perceived at a glance that
matters had mended. There was the hum of many voices, and a perfume like
that of tea and many _papiross_, or cigarettes, with a prompt sense of
society and of enjoyment. I was dazzled at first by the glare of the
lights, and could distinguish nothing, unless it was that the numerous
company regarded me with utter amazement; for it was an "off night," when
no business was expected,--few were there save "professionals" and their
friends,--and I was manifestly an unexpected intruder on Bohemia. As
luck would have it, that which I believed was the one worst night in the
year to find the gypsy minstrels proved to be the exceptional occasion
when they were all assembled, and I had hit upon it. Of course this
struck me pleasantly enough as I looked around, for I knew that at a
touch the spell would be broken, and with one word I should have the
warmest welcome from all. I had literally not a single speaking
acquaintance within a thousand miles, and yet here was a room crowded
with gay and festive strangers, whom the slightest utterance would
convert into friends.

I was not disappointed. Seeking for an opportunity, I saw a young man of
gentlemanly appearance, well dressed, and with a mild and amiable air.
Speaking to him in German, I asked the very needless question if there
were any gypsies present.

"You wish to hear them sing?" he inquired.

"I do not. I only want to talk with one,--with _any_ one."

He appeared to be astonished, but, pointing to a handsome, slender young
lady, a very dark brunette, elegantly attired in black silk, said,--