he Yangtse in a New York built Hudson
River steamer, commanded by a Yankee captain from Cape Ann. At Wuchang
he called on Bishop Williams, whom he had met in London at the
Pan-Anglican council, and who afterwards made so noble record of work
in the Mikado's empire.

So far from being appalled at what he saw of the Chinese and their
civilization, Carleton noted many things to admire,--their democratic
spirit, their competitive civil service examinations, and their
reverence for age and parental authority. At the dinners occasionally
eaten in a Chinese restaurant, he asked no questions as to whether the
animal that furnished the meat barked, mewed, bellowed, or whinnied,
but took the mess in all good conscience.

From the middle of the Sunrise Kingdom, the passage was made on the
American Pacific mail-steamer _Costa Rica_, through a great storm. In
those days before lighthouses, the harbor of Nagasaki was reached
through a narrow inlet, which captains of ships were sometimes puzzled
to find. They steamed under and within easy range of the fifty or more
bronze cannon, mounted on platforms under sheds along the cliffs.
Except at Shimonoseki, in 1863 and 1864, when floating and fast
fortresses, steamers and land-batteries exchanged their shots, to the
worsting of the Choshiu clansmen, the military powers of the Japanese
had not yet been tested. Accepting the local traditions about the
Papists' Hill, or Papenberg, from which, in 1637, the insurgent
Christians are said to have been hurled into the sea, Carleton wrote,
"The gray cliff, wearing its emerald crown, is an everlasting memorial
to the martyr dead."

It was in this harbor that the American commander, James Glynn, in
1849, in the little fourteen-gun brig _Preble_, gave the imperious
and cruel Japanese of Tycoon times a taste of the lesson they were to
learn from McDougall and Pearson. Soon they reached Deshima, the
little island which, in Japan's modern history, might well be called
its leaven; for here, for over two centuries, the Dutch dispensed
those ideas, as well as their books and merchandise, which helped to
make the Japan of our day. Carleton's impressions of the Japanese were
that they had a more manly physique, and were less mildly tempered,
but that they were lower in morals, than the Chinese. The women were
especially eager to know the mysteries of crinoline, and anxiously
inspected the dress of their foreign sisters.

Japan, in 1868, was in the throes