ry. The 2d I
travelled seven c. I rested the 3d, because of rain. The 4th I went five
c. and this day I overtook a camel, laden with 300 heads, sent from
Candahar to the king, the people to whom these heads had belonged having
been in rebellion. Travelling five c. on the 5th, and four c. on the
6th, I that day overtook the king at a walled town called _Todah_, in
the best and most populous country I had seen in India since I landed.
The district was quite level, having a fertile soil, abounding in corn,
cotton, and cattle, and the villages were so numerous and near together,
as hardly to exceed a coss from each other in any direction. This town
was the best built of any I had seen in India, many of the houses being
two stories high, and most of them good enough for decent shop-keepers,
all covered with tiles. It had been the residence of a Rajput rajah,
before the conquests of Akbar Shah, and stood at the foot of a great and
strong rock, about which were many excellent works of hewn stone, well
cut, with many tanks, arched over with well-turned vaults, and large and
deep descents to them. Near it was a beautiful grove, two miles long and
a quarter of a mile broad, all planted with mangoes, tamarinds, and
other fruit-trees, divided by shady walks, and interspersed with little
temples, and idol altars, with many fountains, wells, and summer-houses
of carved stone curiously arched, so that I must confess a poor banished
Englishman might have been content to dwell here. But this observation
may serve universally for the whole of this country, that ruin and
devastation operates every where; for, since the property of all has
become vested in the king, no person takes care of any thing, so that in
every place the spoil and devastations of war appear, and no where is
any thing repaired.
On the 7th the king only removed from one side of Todah to the other.
The 8th I was at the guzalcan, but found the king so nearly drunk, that
he became entirely so in half an hour, so that I could not have any
business with him. The 9th I took a view of the royal _leskar_, or camp,
which is one of the greatest wonders I had ever seen, and chiefly as I
saw it finished and set up in less than four hours, all except the tents
of some of the great men, who have double suits. It could not well be
less in circuit than twenty English miles, the extent in some directions
being three cosses, including the out-skirts. In the middle, where the
streets ar
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