d and detained, I did not
hesitate upon the course to adopt, and forthwith set off on foot. My
money was safely deposited in my girdle; and without any other baggage
than a good staff in my hand, I left Kermanshah, and proceeded on my
road.

On the evening of the third day, when nearly exhausted with fatigue,
my eyes were cheered by the sight of fires at a distance, the smoke
of which curled up over the brow of a hill; and approaching them,
I discovered cattle spread over the plain grazing, and thus was not
mistaken in supposing that the caravan was nigh at hand. As I advanced
towards the baggage, which was piled up in a hollow square, and where
I knew that I should find the conductor, I observed a small white
tent, pitched at some little distance, which indicated that pilgrims of
consequence were of the party; and, moreover, that women were amongst
them, for a _takhteravan_ (a litter) and a _kejaweh_ (panniers) were
seen near the tent.

I gave myself out for a pilgrim, and found the conductor very ready
to furnish me with a mule for my conveyance. I was anxious to pass
unnoticed, considering the predicament in which I stood; but still the
conscious dignity which the ninety-five pieces of gold in my girdle gave
me made it difficult for me to restrain that vanity of display so common
to all my countrymen.

Among the baggage, at a small distance from the square in which I was
seated, were several long and narrow packages sewn up in thick felts,
which were spread in pairs upon the ground, apparently having been
unloaded there from the backs of camels. I inquired what they might
be, for the sight of them was new to me, and was informed that they
contained dead bodies bound to Kerbelah.

'It is evident you are a stranger,' said the conductor, who appeared to
be as loquacious and mother-witted as those of his profession generally
are, 'or otherwise you would have been better informed. We are carrying
rare things to Kerbelah!'

'Yes,' said I, 'I am a stranger; I come from afar, and am like one
decended from the mountains. In God's name, what are you carrying to
Kerbelah?'

'What!' answered he, 'have you heard nothing of the extraordinary death
of the mollah bashi of Tehran; how he died in the bath; and how
his ghost was seen on horseback, and then in his harem; and how it
afterwards ran off with one of the chief executioner's best horses?
Where have you been living all this while?' added he, shaking both his
hands bef