ily partially concealed beneath a heap of
valuable cloths and jewels.

[Illustration: TYPICAL RETABLO (PALENCIA)]

But where the silversmith's art is purest and most lavishly pronounced
is in the _sagrarios_. These are solid silver carved pyramids about two
or three feet high: they represent miniature temples or thrones with
shafts or columns supporting arches, windows, pinnacles, and cupolas. In
the interior, an effigy of the saint, or the Virgin, etc., to whom the
cathedral is dedicated, is to be seen seated on a throne.

In all cases the workmanship of these miniature temples is exquisite,
and has brought just fame to Spain's fifteenth and sixteenth century
silversmiths.

* * * * *

IRONCRAFT.--Last to be mentioned, but not least in importance, are the
artisans who worked in iron. They brought their trade up to the height
of a fine art of universal fame; their artistic window _rejas_, in the
houses and palaces of the rich, are the wonder of all art lovers, and so
also are the immense _rejas_ or grilles which close off the high altar
and the choir from the transept, or the entrance to chapels from the
aisles. Though this art has completely degenerated to-day, nevertheless,
a just remark was made in the author's hearing by an Englishman, who
said:

"Even to-day, Spaniards are unable to make a bad _reja_."

* * * * *

The reader's and tourist's attention has been called to the salient
artistic points of a Spanish cathedral. They must be examined one by
one, and they will be admired; the view of the ensemble will puzzle and
amaze him, yet it will be wise for him not to criticize harshly the lack
of _unity of style_. Frequently the choir stalls are ogival, the
_retablo_ Renaissance, the _rejas_ plateresque, and the general
decoration of columns, etc., of the most lavish grotesque.

This in itself is no sin, neither artistic nor ethical, as long as the
_religious awe_ comes home to the Spaniard, for whom these cathedrals
are intended. Besides, it is an open question whether the monotony of a
pure style be nobler than a luxurious moulding together of all styles.
The whole question is, do the different parts harmonize, or do they
produce a _criard_ impression.

The answer in all cases is purely personal. Yet, even if unfavourable,
the utility of the art demonstration must be borne in mind and
considered as well. And as regards the Spaniard, the utility