is is exceptional. Cuban etiquette
says that a lady must not be seen on the streets except in a vehicle,
and only Americans, English, and other foreigners disregard the rule.

The architecture of the dwelling-houses is exceedingly heavy, giving
them the appearance of great age. They are built of the porous stone
so abundant upon the island, which, though soft when first worked into
suitable blocks, becomes as hard as granite by exposure to the
atmosphere. The facades of the town houses are nearly always covered
with stucco. Their combination of colors, yellow, green, and blue,
harmonizes with the glowing atmosphere of the tropics. This will
strike the stranger at first as being very odd; there is no system
observed, the tenant of each dwelling following his individual fancy
as to the hue he will adopt, a dingy yellow prevailing. Standing upon
the Campo de Marte and looking in any direction, these changing colors
give a picturesque effect to the range of buildings which surround the
broad field. In this vicinity the structures are nearly all of two
full stories, and many with rows of lofty pillars supporting broad
verandas, including one or two palaces, one fine large club-house,
some government offices, and the Telegrafo Hotel. These varying colors
are not for fancy alone, they have a raison d'etre; namely, to absorb
the sharp rays of the constant sunshine. But for some toning down of
the glare, one's eyes would hardly be able to sustain the power of
vision. The vividness with which each individual building and object
stands out in the clear liquid light is one of the first peculiarities
which will strike the stranger.

The dwelling-houses are universally so constructed as to form an open
square in the centre, which constitutes the only yard or court that is
attached. The house is divided into a living-room, a store-room,
chambers, and stable, these all upon one floor, while the family
vehicle blocks up in part the only entrance, which is used in common
by horses, ladies, slaves, and gentlemen callers. If there is a second
story, a broad flight of steps leads to it, and there are the family
chambers or sleeping apartments, opening upon a corridor which extends
round the court. Peculiar as this manner of building at first seems,
it is well adapted to the climate, and one soon becomes satisfied with
it.

With such surroundings it is easy to imagine one's self at Granada, in
far-off Spain, and it seems almost natural to