be proceeded
with, a chisel being first used, then a rather close grained file for
further levelling and the finishing off with the finest glass-paper
or emery cloth, having a drop or two of oil in it; this will give a
smooth, dull polish agreeable to the eye. The grooves in which the
strings will have to rest must be marked out or pricked to measurement
so that the spaces may appear regular when the violin is strung up.
The distance apart being occasionally done to the caprice of the player,
measurement should be kept of this matter of detail from some well
regulated instrument as a standard to go by. When the exact spots for
the grooves are marked or pricked, a very small, round or "rat-tailed"
file may be used to work the wood down at the spot, care being taken
that the file is constantly held in an exact line with the direction
of the fingerboard, otherwise when strung up the appearance at the part
will be that of distortion and the string will even be checked in its
freedom in passing through the grooves, each of which should be made
to receive the string not too tightly nor too loose. Of course the width
of each groove must be in agreement with the thickness of the string,
the widest being the D, the G a little less, the A less still and the
E least of all; the E should be a trifle closer to the fingerboard than
the D or G, the last, having the widest swing during play, should be
raised further off the board than the others. The arching of that side
of the nut may also be left a little higher. The nut should also be
made to slant down towards the peg box (diagram 8), the grooves being
of a regular depth on this and not deeper at the top (diagram 9). When
all is ready for the stringing up, a soft lead pencil may be used for
blackleading the grooves, they are otherwise liable to arrest the
progress of the string towards the pegs when tuning up and suddenly
letting them go with a click, making the tuning uncertain and
difficult; if the wood is rather obstinate--it is not always alike--a
touch of beeswax of the size of a pin's head where the lead is placed
will be an effectual cure.

[Illustration: DIAGRAM 8.]

[Illustration: DIAGRAM 9.]

We may now leave this as finished, going to the other end of the violin
where another nut is used for supporting the tail-string as it comes
over to the end peg. This part is frequently done in a slovenly way,
even by some repairers of good repute; there is no reason why it should